Blown Head Gasket

This van's water pump went out and we replaced it before Nov. We also had to replace the idler pulley(?) and serpentine belt shortly after that. Then, the temperature gauge kept jumping to HOT every time you started it. It would sound like something was boiling under the hood. I would shut it off immediately and nothing was ever found leaking or pouring out of it. I haven't started it in awhile. Does you have any ideas? I talked to a couple of people and the first thing they mentioned was the thermostat, but complained that it was allot of work to change in this vehicle.One of my friends also said it could be a blown head gasket. Does this sound like the symptom and how do I repair it. I really need my van fixed. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated! ! Thanks, Tammy

RESPONSE:
It would have been good practice to replace the thermostat when you changed the water pump. My guess is the thermostat is sticking closed. The boiling noise you hear is probably the coolant returning to the overflow tank. It is usually not that hard of a job to change it. Most anyone with a little Read Entire Article

Engine fans not comming on. Overheating Ford Focus

I had problem with my cooling system. After I traced out, I found out that my cooling fan is not working properly. At first, I thought it didn't work at all. But after testing the relay, it is in fact, working. So I went to the Temp Sensor, thinking it has to be the problem. But the Auto Shop was unable to even locate the sensor, they really sucks. However, now I just notice it wasn't even the sensor's fault. The cooling fan will only turn on when the AC is on. And it will turn off as well. That indicates that the sensor gotta be working; if not the fan should either stay on or off the whole time/ it shouldn't cycle if it is not working. I am not really a electrical guy. Can any of you guys tell me where the problem is? I am suspecting the electrical wirings between the cooling system and the ac system are theultimate blame. Am I right?

Answer:
I have good news for you. The problem you describe, and in EXACTLY the way you've described it, sounds like your cooling fan blower resistor has burned out. This is NOT to be confused with your car's climate control blower resistor pertaining to the four speed settings. What is probably happening is you are not getting any LOW speed cooling fan operation, when commanded by the PCM. There are two cooling fans, as others have already posted. Each cooling fan has a two wire pigtail connector to it. Look BETWEEN the two cooling fans for a two wire connector exactly identical to the ones plugged into the cooling fan motors. This will be plugged into the resistor. To disconnect it, simply DEPRESS the metal clip, and pull to remove. Look for a burned out connector, as well as the resistor it plugs into. To repair this problem, you need to go to your local Ford dealer parts department to purchase the blower resistor and pigtail connector. Both of these parts are very inexpensive, even from the dealer. It is also EXTREMELY common on your car. Please keep me informed of your findings. Hope this helps.

Found this answer on Yahoo answers and was Dead On !!! Melted plug and all. Ordered parts from ford and all is well.

My low coolant light came on, What could it be ?

My son's 2000 Saab 95 SE said engine coolant low so he added coolant. Here it is 2 days later and it is saying it again. When he filled it the first time he saw that there was still some coolant in the reservoir but it was low.. Any ideas how serious it could be?

Answer:

I would check two things.

1. Is there enough coolant. If there is not enough coolant again you need to check if the coolant is leaking out. You can rent a pressure tester from Autozone to find leaks. It's very simple to use and very effective. It's a radiator cap with a hand held pump attached, you take your cap off and attach the pump. Then pump and listen for leaks (done with car off so leaks are easy to find).

2. Coolant level sensor. If you have enough coolant, yet the light is still coming on then the sensor is bad. The sensor should be located on the reservoir, if you have coolant then it's giving a false reading.

wrangler is overheating and has an entire new cooling system.

Question:

wrangler Jeep 4.0, my 94 wrangler is overheating and has an entire new cooling system. it now is idling rough and stalls out. whats wrong? replaced the entire cooling system. was fine for a month now it overheats again and idles rough and dies

Answer;

This is a classic sign of a blown head gasket. To confirm this, have a compression test done. All cylinders should be within 20 psi of each other. If not, you have a blown head gasket. Have the head check for cracks once removed to be on the safe side.

Overheating Diagnostics

what are possible reason for water getting in the engine

Some of the most common causes are a bad head gasket or depending on the vehicle it could be an intake gasket leaking. Some other causes could be a cracked head or a cracked block causing water to get into the engine. If it just a very little bit of water and you are not loosing coolant it could be just condensation. You should have the vehicle pressure tested and depending on the results from that you may need to do a compression test.

It over heated for like 5 minutes blowing white smoke out the back and will not turn over anymore

QUESTION:
I have a 1998 Oldsmobile Regency with a 3.8L V6 SFI engine. It over heated for like 5 minutes one day then started blowing white smoke out the back and will not turn over anymore. It has been tested for a blown head gasket and that isn't what it is. A mechanic has it now and has replaced the Plenum gasket, injector O'rings, Lower intake manifold, and spark plugs, the plugs being the last thing tried. It started twice for him but when he turns it off it wont turn over again. We also tried a new battery. Someone told me something about a restart button. Sounds crazy to me but I'm no mechanic. Already Tried: Injector O'rings, Plenum gasket, Lower intake manifold, Battery, Spark plugs. This car was babied by my grandmother never missed an oil change or anything. Plugs being the last thing tried... Or the newest part on the car rather.

ANSWER:
The first test that needs to be performed is a compression test. This is how you determine if the head gasket is blown. The initial description of what happened is classic to a blown head gasket. Take the guess work out of it and let the compression test prove it. All cylinder pressure should be within 20 psi of each other, if not... you have a blown head gasket or cracked head(cracked head is not very common).

If the starter just doesn't turn over then it can be tested by checking for power at the starter with the key in start position. If it has power and does nothing (no click, no nothing) then the starter needs to be replaced. If it gives a hard click. then the engine may be vapor locked from coolant entering the cylinders.... so back to the first thing first. Have a compression test performed(which should have been the first thing done).

If the mechanic says he can not perform this, then you need to take it to a different shop.