It shouldn't and most dealerships will not void the warranty unless you install a chip or something that needs to be spliced into the electrical system, but to be 100% sure you would want to call the dealership you bought vehicle from.
Friday, July 31, 2009
Thursday, July 30, 2009
Wednesday, July 29, 2009
Cash for Clunkers - Official on July 24th - Get up to $4500.00
We have all heard the TV and radio ads for the "cash for clunkers" program that offers up to $4500.00 for your old trade in. This has become a some what misleading program. The ads what have you think they would give you an instant rebate of $4500.00 for your old car no matter the actual value. This is not true. Your vehicle must qualify with Government EPA regulations.
Even though the program's basic requirements have been known since it was created by Congress earlier this year, Cash for Clunkers didn't become official until July 24. So as part of the official launch, the EPA conducted "quality assurance and quality control effort regarding fuel economy calculations on more than 30,000 vehicle model types spanning the past 25 years," according to an e-mail sent by EPA spokesman Dale Kemery.
The trade-in clunker must be no more than 25 years old and have a combined highway/city 18 miles per gallon. It must be in drivable condition and been owned and insured for the previous year. Consumers who buy a vehicle with 4-9 mpg higher than the older vehicle get a $3,500 voucher; if they trade it in for a vehicle that's 10 mpg or better than the old one, they get a $4,500 voucher.
For light trucks, the rebate requires a 2 mpg improvement to get a $3,500 rebate and a 5 mpg improvement gets a $4,500 rebate.
Consumers must apply the rebate to a vehicle with a base price of $45,000 or less.
Dealers pay the rebate and are reimbursed by NHTSA. Dealers must disable the engine by draining the oil and running the vehicle using a substance that destroys the engine after 5 minutes.
Consumers can go to cars.gov to find out if their vehicle is eligible and if their local dealer is participating. NHTSA is launching a $10 million advertising campaign to highlight the program.
Program runs through Nov 1, 2009 or when the funds are exhausted, whichever comes first. $858 million left in the program funds as of this morning. Take advantage if you can.
Even though the program's basic requirements have been known since it was created by Congress earlier this year, Cash for Clunkers didn't become official until July 24. So as part of the official launch, the EPA conducted "quality assurance and quality control effort regarding fuel economy calculations on more than 30,000 vehicle model types spanning the past 25 years," according to an e-mail sent by EPA spokesman Dale Kemery.
The trade-in clunker must be no more than 25 years old and have a combined highway/city 18 miles per gallon. It must be in drivable condition and been owned and insured for the previous year. Consumers who buy a vehicle with 4-9 mpg higher than the older vehicle get a $3,500 voucher; if they trade it in for a vehicle that's 10 mpg or better than the old one, they get a $4,500 voucher.
For light trucks, the rebate requires a 2 mpg improvement to get a $3,500 rebate and a 5 mpg improvement gets a $4,500 rebate.
Consumers must apply the rebate to a vehicle with a base price of $45,000 or less.
Dealers pay the rebate and are reimbursed by NHTSA. Dealers must disable the engine by draining the oil and running the vehicle using a substance that destroys the engine after 5 minutes.
Consumers can go to cars.gov to find out if their vehicle is eligible and if their local dealer is participating. NHTSA is launching a $10 million advertising campaign to highlight the program.
Program runs through Nov 1, 2009 or when the funds are exhausted, whichever comes first. $858 million left in the program funds as of this morning. Take advantage if you can.
Monday, July 27, 2009
Ferrari 599 HGTE
Ferrari 599 HGTE, originally uploaded by jarapet.
http://www.elconfidencial.com/fotos/noticias/2009072633SUPERHORIZ599.jpg
Sunday, July 26, 2009
how do you replace the cabin airfilter
how do you replace the cabin air filter on an 2006 Mazda tribute v6 4x4?
Year: 2006
Make: Mazda
Model: tribute
Engine: v6 4x4
Answer:
The cabin air filter is located under the hood, on the right side. Just remove the access panel to get to the filter.
Year: 2006
Make: Mazda
Model: tribute
Engine: v6 4x4
Answer:
The cabin air filter is located under the hood, on the right side. Just remove the access panel to get to the filter.
Saturday, July 25, 2009
Thursday, July 23, 2009
issue with the brakes. The pedal is soft and tends to go to the floor
I am in Australia and we have a 97 Chevy Silverado that has been converted to right hand drive. We have an issue with the brakes. The pedal is soft and tends to go to the floor. We have changed master cylinders, pads, discs etc. etc. and now have bypassed the ABS and find that they work much better, but still a soft pedal. Our mechanic is wondering if there is a specific way of bleeding the ABS as this is where there seems to be some air that cannot be gotten rid of. Normal procedures are not working (normal in Aus anyway...) It is not an uncommon problem I believe in converted vehicles, but aside from being unsafe, our truck is now unsaleable until the ABS is reconnected and the pedal is firmer. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Already Tried: Bleeding brakes new master cylinder new discs new pads bypassing ABS
Answer:
The ABS system on this vehicle has always been problematic. There are a couple of things that will help when you bleed this system.
This is a two person procedure and may require a pint or more of brake fluid per wheel.
The old fashioned manual method with modification is best here, starting at the right rear wheel use a clear tube on the bleeder in a small glass of brake fluid crack the bleeder, have the person in the cap depress the brake pedal halfway never more and hold, the other person closes the bleeder and you both wait 15 - 20 seconds then the pedal is raised, the bleeder is cracked and the pedal is pressed, bleeder closed, pedal held halfway down etc. until all air stops coming out of that corner. Continue around to all the wheels in the same manner.
Once you have run a gallon of fluid through use a Tech2 scanner or a scanner that allows you to operated the automated bleed procedure in the ABS computer.
After doing the automated bleed procedure once go back and re bleed the wheels manually.
There are accumulator pistons in the ABS hydraulic unit that may be leaking, pull the small rubber cap from the two at the bottom of the unit and slide a small screwdriver in the hole until it bottoms on the piston and have a helper step on the brake pedal if the screwdriver is pushed out the piston is moving and the hydraulic unit is junk and must be replaced.
These systems are soft low pedals when they are working properly and have been the bane of many a mechanic over the years I will be glad to see the last of them in the junkyard.
This is a two person procedure and may require a pint or more of brake fluid per wheel.
The old fashioned manual method with modification is best here, starting at the right rear wheel use a clear tube on the bleeder in a small glass of brake fluid crack the bleeder, have the person in the cap depress the brake pedal halfway never more and hold, the other person closes the bleeder and you both wait 15 - 20 seconds then the pedal is raised, the bleeder is cracked and the pedal is pressed, bleeder closed, pedal held halfway down etc. until all air stops coming out of that corner. Continue around to all the wheels in the same manner.
Once you have run a gallon of fluid through use a Tech2 scanner or a scanner that allows you to operated the automated bleed procedure in the ABS computer.
After doing the automated bleed procedure once go back and re bleed the wheels manually.
There are accumulator pistons in the ABS hydraulic unit that may be leaking, pull the small rubber cap from the two at the bottom of the unit and slide a small screwdriver in the hole until it bottoms on the piston and have a helper step on the brake pedal if the screwdriver is pushed out the piston is moving and the hydraulic unit is junk and must be replaced.
These systems are soft low pedals when they are working properly and have been the bane of many a mechanic over the years I will be glad to see the last of them in the junkyard.
Wednesday, July 22, 2009
The a/c starts out good when I first start the car. Then as it gets to cold in the car I turn it down
I have 2003 S 60 2.4t The a/c starts out good when I first start the car. Then as it gets to cold in the car I turn it down that is when I have a problem with it. It gets to a point where it is hardly blowing out air no matter high high or low the fan control is. If I turn it off for a few minutes then it will start working again I don't know if it is related but one of the lines is frozen in the engine compartment. Already Tried: Changing the cabin air filter
Answer:
You have a bad evaporator temp switch, It is not shutting the compressor of when the temp gets too low, and your evaporator is freezing over, thus the insufficient air flow, when the evap melts, its blows again. You need to replace this switch. You just remove the harness, then remove the switch and install the new one. See above diagram.
AmericanMuscle & Friends Raise $9,000+ for Charity
From the beginning the American Muscle Car Show was set to be more than just a show. Company founders, backed by enthusiastic employees, pushed to give something back to the men and women who have sacrificed so much for our freedom. The initial goal was to raise $5,000 to Homes for Our Troops, a charity that buys or builds homes for disabled veterans. After two previous donations, the team at AM decided to recruit its customers, vendors, families and friends to join the cause and give to this noble charity at the show.
With American Muscle pledging to donate 100 percent of all show proceeds, the effort was fueled by the AM Girls selling raffle tickets for some seriously sweet parts donated by many top Mustang performance brands like SCT, Roush, Eibach, dba, Hawk, Pypes Exhaust, BBK, Maximum Motorsports, aFe, MagnaFlow, Motive, Edelbrock, PA Performance, H&R Springs and more. Also adding to that total were t-Shirt and food sales, plus personal contributions from AM employees.
At the end of the day, with all donations counted, American Muscle wrote a check for $8015 to Homes for our Troops. Joining American Muscle in supporting this great cause, the members of the Garden State Region Mustang Club voted unanimously to give a generous donation of $850 to the charity. Another donation of $500 was received from an anonymous American Muscle supplier bringing the total joint donation to $9,365.
Accepting on behalf of the charity were Frank and Karen McKee of Springfield, PA. After receiving the very large check, Mr. McKee expressed sincere appreciation saying he was humbled by the donation. Personally, I think we’re more humbled by our troops.
Tuesday, July 21, 2009
Monday, July 20, 2009
squeaks terribly when driven with most of the noise coming from the front
I have a 200 Eddie Bauer Expedition. It squeaks terribly when driven with most of the noise coming from the front. It sounds like an old spring mattress. It makes the noise when going straight or turning. I think the power steering might also be making some noise as well, but it is hard to tell
Answer:
More than likely your squeak noise is coming form the lower ball joints. This is a common failure part for the ford trucks/suv's. Have both replaced and the noise should no longer be an issue.
With the vehicle parked, you can push up on the door frame in order to get the vehicle rocking and the noise will occur. This is a clear sign of the lower ball joint failing.
With the vehicle parked, you can push up on the door frame in order to get the vehicle rocking and the noise will occur. This is a clear sign of the lower ball joint failing.
If the noise changed when turning I would say it might be a Hub Bearing
Sunday, July 19, 2009
Saturday, July 18, 2009
Friday, July 17, 2009
Thursday, July 16, 2009
my van has no power. A realtively new battery is drained, and nothing works.
my van has no power. A relatively new battery is drained, and nothing works. The van is a 2001 ford windstar there are about 100,000 miles on the van Thought the battery was drained, so we tried to hook up a fully charged battery and it drained the charged battery as well. Had the alternator replaced shortly before this problem started.
Answer:
Sounds like the alternator is either not hooked up completely ( wire unplugged) or the new alternator is bad.
Alternator Testing
Alternator Testing
Alfa 8C Spider
http://estaticos02.cache.el-mundo.net/elmundomotor/imagenes/2009/07/16/1247736894_extras_ladillos_4_g_0.jpg
Wednesday, July 15, 2009
Tuesday, July 14, 2009
Mercedes-Benz Clase E E 63 AMG berlina
http://estaticos02.cache.el-mundo.net/elmundomotor/imagenes/2009/07/14/1247222775_0.jpg
Monday, July 13, 2009
I run NOS on this car and everything was going well when i ran 100 shot with 4 degrees retard.
Ok here's where i am at with my 1987 GT Stang. I run NOS on this car and everything was going well when i ran 100 shot with 4 degrees retard. I did some other mods to car (Not Engine / its Stock) and today i went to a 150 shot with 5 degrees retard and it seemed as if i now have a few problems. After some what of a short test run, my car seemed to want to stall at 200RPMS and so i took my time and got home and ran codes on tester. The codes i came up with are / 81 - air diverter solenoid fault / 29 insufficient input from VSS / 34 - Insufficient EGR Flow, EVP voltage high, FPE sensor Voltage high / 66 - VAF, Mass Air Flow Sensor Fault, Below Min Voltage / 87 Adaptive fuel limit reached, Fuel pump primary circuit fault. HELP ME PLEASE. by the way the pump is only 3 months old and a 255lph pump, 24lb injectors & C&L MAF calibrated to 24. I Have been suspecting problem with VSS as i would stall sometimes when braking and gearing down. I really need all the help i can get.
Answer:
Important info needed. Are you using A Dry Nitrous System or Wet?
You can disconnect the MAF Sensor and test drive it. Follow link for testing MAF.
USE A/C delco R42TS Plugs.
With a 150 shot dry and less than 94 octane you may have melted a plug. Pull all of them and check them.
If the bogging of the engine only happened after you put 150 pills in it. Switch it back to 100 shot pills and test. If it still boggs, make sure your NOS Solenoid is working (disconnect fuel solenoid and hit button with engine off) It can bogg as if you are just adding a bunch of fuel and no nos. Make sure bottle is full and open(you would be surprised) I have also seen holes in the nos line that can cause the same Bogg from not enough nos and too much fuel.
Double check the 150 pills and make sure you put the right ones in the right spot.
I ran 150 Dry for 2 years on stock engine with no issues, to go more than that the block will need to be replaced. I have also ran 150 wet on a stock engine with no issues for years.
Key is to have High octane(Add Octane Boost for cushion) and correct timing. Factory timing is 10 with chip removed. You should be able to bump it to 14 before taking timing out for nos without worry of backfire/pre-detonation/engine ping.
On a wet Nos kit, I would set timing to 8 and for dry I would leave it at 10. On a wet Nos kit, I would set timing to 8 as long as you have 92 octane fuel with 8 point octane boost added ( you can by octane boost at any auto parts store)
If you spin real bad, you can retard timing to 4 and it won't spin so bad. Not sure if you are running D.O.T. s or slicks.
If you are not allowed to use Octane boost than set timing to 6 but you still must use 92 octane or higher.
You can disconnect the MAF Sensor and test drive it. Follow link for testing MAF.
USE A/C delco R42TS Plugs.
With a 150 shot dry and less than 94 octane you may have melted a plug. Pull all of them and check them.
If the bogging of the engine only happened after you put 150 pills in it. Switch it back to 100 shot pills and test. If it still boggs, make sure your NOS Solenoid is working (disconnect fuel solenoid and hit button with engine off) It can bogg as if you are just adding a bunch of fuel and no nos. Make sure bottle is full and open(you would be surprised) I have also seen holes in the nos line that can cause the same Bogg from not enough nos and too much fuel.
Double check the 150 pills and make sure you put the right ones in the right spot.
I ran 150 Dry for 2 years on stock engine with no issues, to go more than that the block will need to be replaced. I have also ran 150 wet on a stock engine with no issues for years.
Key is to have High octane(Add Octane Boost for cushion) and correct timing. Factory timing is 10 with chip removed. You should be able to bump it to 14 before taking timing out for nos without worry of backfire/pre-detonation/engine ping.
On a wet Nos kit, I would set timing to 8 and for dry I would leave it at 10. On a wet Nos kit, I would set timing to 8 as long as you have 92 octane fuel with 8 point octane boost added ( you can by octane boost at any auto parts store)
If you spin real bad, you can retard timing to 4 and it won't spin so bad. Not sure if you are running D.O.T. s or slicks.
If you are not allowed to use Octane boost than set timing to 6 but you still must use 92 octane or higher.
Sunday, July 12, 2009
Thursday, July 9, 2009
Wednesday, July 8, 2009
My AC starts off blowing nice and cold, but after 5-20 minutes it it loses its cool (blows warm air)
My AC starts off blowing nice and cold, but after 5-20 minutes it it loses its cool (blows warm air) it is a 2001 ford escape.
Answer:
Look under the hood when it quits blowing cold and see if the accumulator looks frosted. This is common to a Sticking A/C Relay. To locate the relay, look in your owners manual under fuses/relays. Just replacing the relay should fix this common issue.
What is happening is the compressor is not able to shut off and causes the system to freeze and does not work again until is has time to thaw out.
Online Air Conditioning Information Resource
Answer:
Look under the hood when it quits blowing cold and see if the accumulator looks frosted. This is common to a Sticking A/C Relay. To locate the relay, look in your owners manual under fuses/relays. Just replacing the relay should fix this common issue.
What is happening is the compressor is not able to shut off and causes the system to freeze and does not work again until is has time to thaw out.
Online Air Conditioning Information Resource
Monday, July 6, 2009
put a crankshaft in chevy 454 but when i tighten the rod caps on two cylinders the crank would not turn
I just put a crankshaft in chevy 454 but when i tighten the rod caps on two cylinders the crank would not turn wanted to know what would cause that
Answer:
2 things that will cause this
1) The clearance between the bearings and crank ( did you plastigage?)
2) If you are putting the rods and caps in the wrong direction it will cause them to bind.
1) The clearance between the bearings and crank ( did you plastigage?)
2) If you are putting the rods and caps in the wrong direction it will cause them to bind.
Not just the caps being on the right way, but the rods aiming the the right direction. If the pistons have not been removed from the rods, you can use the small mark on top of the piston as a guide. The marks should all face the front of the engine when installed. There are different sizes available. specially if the rods have been reconditioned or the crank turned. I assume you are putting plenty of assembly lube on the bearing before installation and that the crank spun freely with the main bearing caps torqued to spec.
Lamborghini Gallardo LP 550-2 Valentino Balboni
http://estaticos02.cache.el-mundo.net/elmundomotor/imagenes/2009/07/02/1246549936_extras_noticia_1_g_0.jpg
Sunday, July 5, 2009
Saturday, July 4, 2009
July 4th Fireworks are Hot, so keep cool with your Air Conditioning on the way there
Independence Day is one of my favorite times of the year. Local communities across the United States have celebrated with parades and festivals for years. Many larger cities offer huge fireworks displays for all the family to enjoy. So this means everyone will need to pile in the "family truckster" and make your way through the heavy traffic during one of the years hottest days of the year. We all know just how hot it can during the stand still on the way there especially if the air conditioning if on the fritz. Don't let this become one of your worst days of the years. Check your car's Air Conditioner and make sure your vehicle is in good working condition before heading out to enjoy July 4th fireworks. A few milutes to check your fluid levels and your Air Conditiong operation may just save the day before it needs saving. Now that we have done an ounce of prevention we can enjoy a pound of fun. Be safe and Happy 4th of July !!
Thursday, July 2, 2009
Wednesday, July 1, 2009
codes: P0003, P0171 & P0174. The engine just started running very rough. Check engine light is on.
I am getting 3 codes: P003, P0171 & P0174. The engine just started running very rough. Check engine light is on. it is a 1999 ford f150 4x4 5.4L 120000 mi. Is this something that would come on suddenly? Truck was running fine and I stopped to get gas and it started running rough on restart after fill up
Answer:
This is a great example of a vacuum leak. More than likely the intake gaskets are shot and need to be replaced as this is the most common issue with the fords and these codes.
It is possible to happen all at once, it is possible that you just got some bad gas then. I would put some octane boost in it and run the gas out then fill it with good gas from another station. If that doesn't clear it up, then you will need to replace the intake gasket or repair the vacuum leak. by spraying brake wash around the top of the engine(not on exhaust) while the engine is running and listen for the engine to change to stumble.
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