1980 chevrolet

I'm working on my son's 1980 Chevy truck. Its been sitting for some time, and going thru things, I found the headlights don't work. I don't have any power to the switch. I don't find a fuse for them in the box, is there a fusible link or something else i'm missing.



Response:

There are 2 ways the system gets its power. 1 is a fusible link on the starter the other is a post on the radiator core support connecting the positive battery to acessories.

the motor is very hot, but isn't, chugging, no power. Hard to start

I would like to thank all that have responded in regards to the catalytic converter.





Last year, with the same symptoms, we punched holes in the converter. Alot of stuff blew out and was fine~after fixing the broken spark plug and cracked coil pack. The muffler shop plugged the holes when had the tailpipe fixed. We thought maybe it was just plugging up again, so we put the holes back in it. But alas, we still have the same problems.



I checked for broken plugs~none. I did find a bad vac line and taped it up for the time being. Now, I would like to see if the second coil is cracked, but cannot figure how to get it off. I took the one bolt out that I could see and it won't come off. I took the bolt out for the other pack, figuring it was holding second one on. Nothing. How to I get that thing off? We replaced the one marked 2 & 3. Now I would like to get 1 & 4 off to check it.



I incorrectly stated the year of my truck in my first message. It is a 1994, 4 cyl, automatic, S-10. My mechanic brother passed away, so I now have no one that can do the back yard stuff. Frustrating.



It acts like a vac line has come off, but they are all on now. Acts like the motor is very hot, but isn't, chugging, no power. Hard to start. We can be driving fine, then starts the no power and chugging. Last year, we would just pull over and shut it off for a few minutes and it would be fine to get home. I drove it two blocks this morning after fixing the one vac line. Was fine until I got half way around. I just came straight back home. It is fine at idle.



How do I get the coil pack off?

04 Explorer a/c burnt?

I have a good one for you! I knew sooner or later this would happen.It could have easily burned and totalled the vehicle.

My son's 04 Explorer which was having earlier problems with the a/c compressor not powering on, now it is a bigger problem. Previously he was jumpering directly from the a/c clutch wire connector to the battery, to engage the a/c compressor clutch.

Well,he decided to hook up a toggle switch to the suv interior. After doing that, it wasn't long before the a/c clutch two wire connector shorted together and caused melted black electrical tape and the toggle switch to burn up, taking out the battery in the process.

He had to replace the battery and now when he tries jumpering directly to the battery again,it just causes sparking.

My question is the a/c compressor clutch coil

possibly shorted out or could it be the old original wire connector itself causing the arcing? How can you test the a/c clutch coil?

I am presently trying to locate and buy a new a/c clutch wiring connector pigtail. It is a two spade/two wire connector. I called A/Z and Oreilly's and they either don't have it or unsure which connector is the proper one.

I may have to call a local Ford dealership.

I do understand all of this is a bone head way of powering the a/c compressor and shouldn't have been done.

Does anyone know a part or oem # that would help to find the correct replacement wire connector.

That is the first priority right now and then get it repaired properly at a mechanic shop.

This 2004 Ford Explorer is a 4 wd, 4.0L V-6, with Vin K

I just need to replace the wiring pigtail to eliminate a possibly burnt out/grounded out connector and hope that he didn't burn out the a/c clutch coil. I would appreciate your help with this very stupid problem.



Response:



1).. reminds me of putting the penny behind the fuse... or in modern times, tin foil around the fuse;-)



2)The A/C clutch coil is an electro magnet. Knowing that I suspect that the Compressor itself is probably bad causing excessive heat by dragging on the clutch surfaces. And I have seen the compressors start fires.



UPDATE

The 04 Explorer meltdown was when the vehicle wasn't running. It shorted out with the a/c clutch wire connector (where hot wired)the two wires touched. So I don't really think it was the compressor itself involved. It was operating well when jumpered due to inability to energize thru the OEM control system via the clutch cycling switch.

Can I check the a/c clutch coil with a multimeter for continuity and/or Ohms? I read that continuity would confirm a good complete circuit. I just want to get the car back to the point of a/c compressor able to engage properly and then get it repaired properly at a local mechanic shop.

I did call a Ford dealership and found a new a/c clutch wire connector pigtail.

Thanks guys for your assistance, will update you later.

2000 Grand Cherokee Jeep Evap code

I have a 2000 Grand Cherokee Jeep 2WD. I had my “check engine light” looked at by a car repair shop. They told me that I had an Evap code of P0043. The mechanic said that the price would be around $300 to replace canisters, etc. Is this a good price? and what are the problems that this could cause with my car if it is not taken care of?



Response:

$300 for the O2 Sensor is a bit steep.. but as far as what happens if you do nothing, the good news is, nothing. The light will just be on. This o2 sensor just moniters the function of the Catalytic converter and has no bearing on fuel mileage or driveability of the vehicle and is only on there because our government says it has to be. You can drive it forever with out this particular part being replaced.



P0043 HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low Bank 1 Sensor 3

Symptoms



- Engine Light ON (or Service Engine Soon Warning Light)



Possible causes



- Heated Oxygen Sensor (H2OS) Bank 1 Sensor 3 circuit open shorted to ground

- Heated Oxygen Sensor (H2OS) Bank 1 Sensor 3 circuit poor electrical connection

- Faulty Heated Oxygen Sensor (H2OS) Bank 1 Sensor 3 circuit

- Heated Oxygen Sensor (H2OS) Bank 1 Sensor 3 circuit fuse

- Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM)



Tech notes



The code means that there is a problem with the READ MORE

Removing harmonic balancer pully need help

Okay here gos our issue, working on a 2000 chrysler cirus, changing out water pump and timing belt. So okay we know how to do that and where it is only problem we have is getting the harmonic balancer pully off to get to it all any suggestions on how or what to do. We have a pully puller, with j hooks. What was susposed to be a day job has turned in to a weeks night mare.



Response:

1) Use a balancer puller

2) The puller needed isn't a Jaw Puller rather it looks like a Peace Sign and has 3 or 4 bolts that go thru it and screw into the balancer where the pully is bolted. Then the center bolt screws down to the crankshaft and is pressed/pulled off. Intallation has a long threaded bolt with a nut and washer that threads into the end of the crankshaft. Tighten the nut and watch as the balancer is pressed on.

3) You can borrow one for free from Auto Zone, give them a deposit & get your deposit back when you return it. I'll bet the guys at Auto Zone will tell you how to use it, not hard to do

05 Chev Impala 3.4 water pump

I'm doing a water pump on this vehicle this afternoon. Any thing particular I should be aware of?



Response:

1) aluminum housing use pb! take time so dont snap bolts! other than that 3m spay to allign pump! but with patients u got this!

2) There was little plastic tits on all the bolts but one. They made it a real pain to put back together.

3) That's silicone... Shoulda peeled it off

4) NO its a very hard plastic, I believe it was some idiot engineers bright idea to hold the gasket in place. Never seen that before and I've probaly done a thousand water pumps.

5) Oh I did one on the same car and it appeared that way but was just silicone... That's why I said that... But none the less definately a stupid design by engineering

94 jeep gc brakes

I have the vehicle listed above... I have completely replaced all parts in the braking system except the abs pump which still functions



Changed:

Power booster

Master cylinder

Proportoning valve

Rubber hoses

Calipers

Wheel cylinders

New rotors

Best non ceramic pads $ can buy on from and shoes on back



I can only get a semi hard brake pedal but I have pretty decent stopping(much better than before I changed the power booster)



Any thoughts on getting a more firm pedal??



Response:

On SOME Jeep Trucks on the rear axle where the brake lines connect is a "Limiter" that functions to allow more fluid to the rear brakes as more payload is gained. On others there is an electrical switch simular to a leveling device that controls the computer and ABS distribution. every wheel has a speed sensor that control each wheel by pressure and signal to the computer. If you have a Bendix System the Accumulator is part of the Pump Assy.

1999 Ford Tarus Cylinder #3 misfire detected

Customer Complaint:

Check engine light on and flashing. Dead miss when engine running.



Shop Diagnosis:

Computer diagnostics showed code p0303 cylinder #3 Misfire detected.



Tested for spark and fuel injection pulse and both were found.

Performed compression test and found it to be low at only 20psi.

Coolant levels were good and engine oil appeared to be ok.

No white smoke from tail pipe.



Still suspected a blown head gasket as these engine are not prone to cracked heads.



Further Engine Diagnostics:

After removing the head, found the #3 cylinder combustion chamber in the head to be wet looking. After further checking( turn upside down and fill chamber with water) found the exhaust valve not sealing.



Repair:



Removed exhaust valve($15.00) and found it to be bent.

Replaced with new valve.

Reassembled and tested operation... No more misfire and customer is happy.

TSB 2009 Caravan/Town and Country Squeak at Low Speed Maneuvers and Over Bumps

Subject: Squeak at Low Speed Maneuvers and Over Bumps



Vehicle Involved: 2009 Caravan/Town and Country. This bulletin applies to vehicles built before February 9, 2009



Condition: Some sway bars may be rubbing against the heat shield during low speed maneuvers and over bumps.



Repair Procedure: This bulletin involves removing, modifying and re-installing the power steering gear heat shield.



Inspect the heat shield to sway bar clearance, if there is rubbing between the sway bar and the heat shield, perform the repair procedure.



1. Raise the vehicle

2. Remove the power steering gear heat shield.

3. Remove the two bolts and clips that retain the heat shield to the vehicle.

4. Cut the heat shield along the line indicated in (Fig. 1).

5. Install the power steering gear heat shield. When installing the push pins replace them with new pins

6. Lower the vehicle

1999 Chevy Tahoe door latch

1999 Chevy Tahoe with cargo doors. The right door has a latch which goes over the left door. Somehow the latch got bumped and is in the closed position. Neither the auto door opener nor the key will let the latch come open. Any help?



Response:

1)Try to hold the handle open and pop the latch in the door with a screwdriver its happened to me once or twice

2)You may have to replace the latch I am guessing that it is jammed.

3)you carefully remove the lower panel by popping out the plastic tabs, usually done by inserting screwdriver between panel and door and prying. After removing the lower panel, peel back the plastic covering the metal door, and check the metal tab on the latch mechanism. If a bunch of dirt and needles are on the top of the door on the top weather stripping, I have seen this collection of dirt/debris prevent a functional latch mechanism from allowing the door to open.

What Happens if I don't change my oil?

I read this post on Yahoo.com today and was quite surprised.

Change Your Oil Every 3,000 Miles





The little sticker placed on the car windshield reminds you to change a car's oil every 3,000 miles -- regardless of make, model or scenario.





But many experts now say the 3,000-mile oil change is dead. Why? New car engines and oil quality have advanced to the point where cars can go 5,000 to 10,000 miles without a change.





"Generally speaking, vehicles don't need to be changed every 3,000 miles anymore," says Tara Baukus Mello, author of Bankrate.com's Driving for Dollars column. "It's somewhere between 5,000 to 10,000, unless they have an engine oil sensor, and then it could be anywhere."





However, don't automatically assume you can push oil changes beyond 3,000 miles.





"It's important to consult your owner's manual for the frequency, the number of miles, the length of time between changes and the type of oil -- and to follow whatever those instructions are," Mello says.

Being a Shop Owner, a Shop Technician for over 20 years and previous Street and Track Racer, I have not only pushed engines to there limits but maintained fleets of vehicles for long periods of time including Police Vehicles that rarely get turned off.   Here is the skinny on oil changes.

1. If you are planning on getting rid of the car in under 50,000 miles, you could get away with not ever changing the oil.


2. If you plan on tossing their car at 100,000 miles or less, you can get away with changing your oil every 10,000 miles.


3. If you would like your engine to last up to 500,000 miles change your oil every 3,000 miles.

Here's the thing, there are differences in everyones driving habits. For example, the police vehicles are sold at auction at 120,000 miles or less so The oil only gets changed every 5,000 miles. The average car owner likes to keep there car to close to 200,000 miles these days and changing the oil more frequently helps to ensure the ability to do just that.



The easiest way to be able to tell when your oil should be replaced is when you can visually see the oil changing to a darker color as this is the first signs of the viscosity (thickness)breaking down. This means the oil is no longer doing its job.



So what exactly am I getting at? You may save a few dollars on oil changes but if you are needing your vehicle to last as long as it can you are just short changing yourself in the long run. An engine can cost Thousands. 



What Happens if I don't change my oil?  Nothing at first and then over time, the engine will start to wear prematurely and start burning oil (oil level decreases). You won't notice the vehicle smoking out the exhaust for a while but once you do, its too late. The damage is already done. You will be buying 2 to 3 quarts of oil between oil changes just to keep the engine full of oil. The engine will pass oil through the exhaust causing damage to the O2Sensors and catalytic converter causing the check engine light to come on and the fuel management system to work improperly giving worse fuel miles and Costing you more money. Then over time you notice a slight rattle or knock noise on start up that eventually happens anytime the engine is running and now you are looking at buying a new engine of replacing the vehicle. In the meantime your neighbor who had his oil changed regularly at 3,000 miles is having none of these problems and you are sitting there thinking you bought a lemon and the whole time it was just a lack of maintenance on your part.



........ Change your Oil, it isn't that expensive. $20,000 car vs. $20.00 oil change..... do the math.

Coolant Leak in 2001 Sunfire

Hello! HELP PLEASE!!!!! I have a 2001 Sunfire and my coolant keeps leaking out, I put some Coolant in it yesterday in Michigan City Indiana, and got home and the low coolant light came back on. Anyone, have an ideal what the problem could be? Im praying its not a big issue, so any help will be greatly appreaciated..



Response:

1) Check your hoses for a leak if that don't get it maybe you have a small crack in your radiator



2) Check for leaks under the car. Could be caused by a hose leak, bad water pump or radiator. If you don't see any leaks check your oil dipstick, if it is a milky or gray shade it could be a cracked head or head gasket which is bad. The milky or gray shade means the coolant is leaking into your engine and mixing with the oil.



3) I used "Bars stop leak" on mine last year around this time. Worked like a charm, haven't had a problem since. I drive a 1993 Saturn SC2.



4) take it to any auto shop and ask if they can give it a presure test, it should cost little or nothing



5) Google "Dexcool". Thats the red coolant that GM started using around 95 or 96. After reading the horror stories, decide if you still want to keep the car. This stuff will eat gaskets and metal engine parts to the point where you will eventually have to replace the engine. A friend with a late 90's Caddy spent 2 grand to replace the heads, and a month later 5 grand for a new engine. The car was only two years old. Another friend with 2 Chevy vans, a 96 and an 02 spent 800 bux to have the cooling systems 'super flushed' and an intake gasket on the 96 replaced. A month later he blew the engine on the 96. I checked the oil level and it was 4 inches past full. The coolant leaked into the oil pan. A month later he had to replace the lifters on the 02. Don't remember the cost on that one.



I just ain't worth it.

Brake problem with 1992 Chevy Lumina Car

the rear brakes on our lumina are shot we just bought the car and discovered the pads are missing and the rotors are severely rusted and pitted i do not even know if the calipers work.can the rotors be turned or is it just as well to buy new.any advice would be helpful thanks.



Response:

1) The rotors can be turned if there is enough metal left on them to be safely used. There is a minimum thickness which varies depending on the manufacturer. If you bring it to a shop, most will replace the rotors, just for the extra bux.



2) I would compare the price to buying them new. The cost of new rotors vs turning them on our van was only a $5 difference so we bought new.



3) Remember that with ABS Brakes to block the line and crack the bleeder screws before you compress and that they turn while compressing. You can rent the tool from most auto parts stores inexpesively. Myself, I'd replace the calipers just because my son has a 93 Lumina and know that they freeze up due to mounting hardware issues. The Hardware kit is cheap and easy to install to ensure safety. We replaced the rotors for $30 each(Borg), calipers were $40 each(Wagner), pads were $25 for the Lifetime Pads(Wagner).



4) I wouldn't open the bleeder screws... I'd take the cap off the master cylinder and push the cylinders back with a clamp(front) or rears turn them back with a special tool its a cube with a bunch of different prong arrangements and you turn it with a 3/8 ratchet... About 11 at most parts stores.... That way when your done its not necessary to bleed the brakes



5) You GO RIGHT AHEAD. The 1st time you have to buy a NEW Accumulator you'll have learned 1 expensive lesson about ABS Systems. And THAT Folks is WHY We block the lines and bleed off thru the bleeder screw.

Home of the Free Alignment just a myth?

If you live in the US and ever listen to the radio you can't help but hear one of the great commercial going on and on about a free alignment with the purchase of new tires. So we want to clear the air about this free alignment business.



1) they do provide an alignment if you purchase 4 New Tires (PAY the operative word) the price is built in dummy!!



2) Did you wreck your car or have front end work done recently that requires an alignment? Probably not, so you do not need an alignment. Now you are paying more for your tire than you need to so you can get an alignment you don't need. Smart on the advertisers part. Most people do not know that they do not need an alignment.



3) Well my car is pulling? Again, if you didn"t wreck it... you just need tires replaced and no need for over priced tires to get an alignment.



How much do they charge for an alignment without purchasing tires? $69.95. So divide that by 4 and that's about $17.50 per tire. Could you buy tires for $17.50 a tire less. YES, so I am going to have to say that you are not getting a FREE Alignment. Don't let shifty advertising convince you otherwise. Stay alert when dealing with Big Brand Tire Stores.

How do you tell if the belt tensioner assembly is bad?

How do you tell if the belt tensioner assembly is bad?

How do you replace it? I am still having some clattering from the tensioner pully after changing the harmonic balancer.

I am stumped again, I installed the dampner, pushed it on good and tightened the center bolt. The pulley appeared to be inline with the others, so reinstalled the belt. Started the engine and ran for 10 min. idling, then went down the road for a mile or two and back. After I got back home, I heard clanking, the belt tensioner pulley was jumping some? I took the pulley off, the bearing seemed pretty good, just a little rough, was able to inject grease into the bearings. I finally replaced the pulley with a new one, then the problem is still there???????

The tensioner pulley jumps erratically with the clanking. I don't know if it is the tensioner assembly or some other pulley grapping the belt at times?

So far the belt is not being damaged yet. The belt tensioner assembly has good tension and strong, with no slack/slop in it but it is jumping on/off as the belt is rotating.

Do you think maybe the pulleys are still out of alignment some kind of way? Is it possible that the dampner could push in too far or does the shaft key stop it properly?

Please send me some help, I don't what to replace a $125 belt tensioner assembly and the problem continues.



RESPONSE:



With the serpentine belt off, the tensioner pulley arm has zero sideways movement when pulling on it. It also has a substantial tension and recoil with the belt off. I just notice that the tensioner groans when raising it and on releasing it when installing the belt, it goes to a point and stops, then you can push it downward by hand maybe another 1/16" at times.

I am eyeing the pulley alignment and had someone with mechanical experience involving pulley drives on heavy equipment, take a look,listen. He thought everything looked normal and was rotating well now, after cycling the a/c compressor clutch off/on, trying to get some tensioner pulley chatter.

So I don't know if I can have full faith in it right now. I will put some miles on the car tomorrow around town and see if it reappears and eats another belt.

I cleaned all the drive pulleys to make sure there wasn't some of the old torn up belt debris/crud in the grooves, either making it prone to jump or grab while rotating, (a long shot effort) ???

After running for 10-15 mins. warming up, so far all is ok, I revved the engine to about 2000 rpm, up/down and no noise at all, no squealing or chattering.

94 Olds Delta 88, 3.8L V-6 serpentine belt replacement

My 94 Olds Delta 88, 3.8L V-6 is on a belt chewing tantrum. The old serpentine drive belt was several years old with cracks across the belt ribs. Well, it separated apart, splitting completely along the ribs last week. I replaced the belt with a new belt from O'reilly auto parts, "Master Pro" brand. I installed the new serpentine belt, making sure that the pulleys were clean of any old belt debris and according to OEM belt routing diagram. I have taken the same belt off/on this engine many times in the past so I am very familiar with the belt routing.

Now after several days of using the car for 25-50 miles. I heard clunking sounds and after raising the hood, the new belt has chewed the inner side up and nipped off a 12" long thin piece, like one rib wide.

Since the belt is shaved, it is now riding out of line from one pulley to another.

What is the cause of this belt chewing? I checked/double checked to make sure the new belt was routed and seated in the pulleys correctly.

All pulleys appeared to me ok, rotating well with no (in/out)end play.

The only other thing that I noticed was it put some holes in the under hood insulation padding and the top covering, cloth, I think was hanging down where IT POSSIBLY could have been caught in the serpentine belt, would that throw the belt off line and caused the belt damage/shave?

One other thing I will note is the engine harmonic balancer has a slight wobble but it has had that for quite a long time.

Please give me some advice on correcting this belt monster. I wouldn't want to buy a $40 better belt only to have it eaten too.



Response:

Check your Belt Tensioner out. It sounds as if it is worn out and out of line. These are available at most parts stores for around $50 and have 2 plastic inserts for the water jacket and Heater Hoses. Also most people don't look at them just the pulley. If you can see any of the internal spring, it's worn out.

Vibration after Replacement of new rotors

I recently purchased 2 new rotors for my suzuki grand vitara and had my tech install the new rotors, when I drove off… I had a shake in the steering wheel when applying the brakes and it felt like the brakes was slipping when pressing on the brakes. I took off the wheel to check for oil or dirt on the rotors and didnt see any oil/dirt on the rotors. I then took it back the tech and he install the old rotors back and didnt have the problem anymore. My tech informed me that the rotors wasnt a good set and where not balance and I needed to take them back to the store and get a replacement. Was this information correct that I was told?



Response:

This is accurate information. The new rotors you had put on were no good right out of the box, it happens form time to time.



The store should Brake Article

1996 K2500 died while driving and not getting gas

I have a 1996 K2500 4×4 5.7 liter that suddenly stopped running while I was driving. It had to be towed and now I am stumped as to what the problem is. The filter is fine, all fuses have been checked, if I pour gas into the carburator it fires up it is just not getting gas to the carburator. The pump is okay. Anybody have any suggestions as to what I can do to try and get this truck running?



Response:

This should be a Fuel injected engine, and it is going to require lots of fuel pressure. So first thing I would do is put a fuel pressure gauge on it and see where your at. You need to be around 55 to 62 KOEO(key on engine off). If it is less than that, swap out the fuel filter as it can possibly increase if it is clogged. I have gotten as much as 5 more psi doing this. If you are still below the minimum 55 psi, You will need to replace the fuel pump (quite common)

Diagnosing an Air Conditioning Leak in your car's AC System

Air Conditioning Leak

If your Air Conditioning System seems to loose its cool, no pun intended, it is most likely do to a lose of freon. Freon itself is colorless and can be difficult to locate. Most shop mechanics will add approved fluorescent dye to the Air Conditioning system in order to help locate the leak. Once the dye has been added to the AC system and freon level topped off. Run the engine for 10 - 15 minutes with the AC on Max. Look for signs of the dye around all AC system components. Once you see where the dye has leaked out it is just a matter of swapping out a bad o-ring or replacing the compressor (shown above). The Dye can be easier to see under UV light but is not necessary in all cases.

More Air Conditioning Troubleshooting Tips

2001 Audi A4 trouble starting

I have an Audi A4 2001. sometimes when I start it, after moving it, just cant start even though the radio lights came on. But after say one hour, when I try to Start the engine, it comes on.What could be the problem? And the brakes are hard to press.



Response:

Thus could be caused by a bad starter assembly. Best way to test this is to check for voltage at the starter when it will not start…. if it is getting voltage and not turning over, you guess it = replace the starter.



Brake pedal feel is firm, but brakes lack sufficient stopping power or fade

1.Check the operation of the brake booster and brake booster check valve. Replace worn or failed parts.

2.Check brake linings and brake surface areas for glazing and replace worn or damaged parts.

3.Check for seized hydraulic parts and linkages, and clean or replace as needed.

http://www.freeautomechanic.com/brakes.html