Toyota Recall - Frequently Asked Questions For Sticking Accelerator Pedal

Which models are affected by the recall/stop sale?





Toyota’s accelerator pedal recall and suspension of sales is confined to the following Toyota Division vehicles:



•Certain 2009-2010 RAV4,



•Certain 2009-2010 Corolla,



•2009-2010 Matrix,



•2005-2010 Avalon,



•Certain 2007-2010 Camry,



•Certain 2010 Highlander,



•2007-2010 Tundra,



•2008-2010 Sequoia



No Lexus Division or Scion vehicles are affected by these actions. Also not affected are Toyota Prius, Tacoma, Sienna, Venza, Solara, Yaris, 4Runner, FJ Cruiser, Land Cruiser, Highlander hybrids and Camry hybrids, which will remain for sale.



Further, Camry, RAV4, Corolla and Highlander vehicles with VINs that begin with "J" are not affected by the sticky accelerator pedal recall.







What is the condition that has prompted Toyota to take this action?



In rare instances, there is a possibility that certain accelerator pedal mechanisms may, mechanically stick in a partially depressed position or return slowly to the idle position.







What is the likelihood that my vehicle will experience this condition?



The condition is rare and does not occur suddenly. It can occur when the pedal mechanism becomes worn and, in certain conditions, the accelerator pedal may become harder to depress, slower to return or, in the worst case, stuck in a partially depressed position.







Are you continuing to investigate other models?



Toyota is confident that all models that contain the potentially sticking pedals have been identified.







Why has Toyota stopped selling the affected vehicles?



Until Toyota has finalized an appropriate remedy to address the potential for sticking accelerator pedals, a sales suspension is necessary.







How long will this stop sale be in effect?



New cars covered by this recall will not be delivered until a remedy is finalized and then implemented.



When do you expect to have a remedy?



Toyota is making every effort to remedy this situation for customers as quickly as possible.



What options are you exploring for a remedy?



Toyota is reviewing a number of different options, and the company hopes to announce a remedy soon.





What should I do if I believe my vehicle is affected by this condition, i.e. I have noticed that my accelerator pedal is hard to depress, slow to return or is unsmooth during operation. What should I do?



The vehicle should be driven to the nearest safe location, the engine shut off and a Toyota dealer contacted for assistance.





What if you experience a sticking accelerator pedal while driving?



Each circumstance may vary, and drivers must use their best judgment, but Toyota recommends taking one of the following actions:





• If you need to stop immediately, the vehicle can be controlled by stepping on the brake pedal with both feet using firm and steady pressure. Do not pump the brake pedal as it will deplete the vacuum utilized for the power brake assist.



• Shift the transmission gear selector to the Neutral (N) position and use the brakes to make a controlled stop at the side of the road and turn off the engine.



• If unable to put the vehicle in Neutral, turn the engine OFF. This will not cause loss of steering or braking control, but the power assist to these systems will be lost.



• If the vehicle is equipped with an Engine Start/Stop button, firmly and steadily push the button for at least three seconds to turn off the engine. Do NOT tap the Engine Start/Stop button.



• If the vehicle is equipped with a conventional key-ignition, turn the ignition key to the ACC position to turn off the engine. Do NOT remove the key from the ignition as this will lock the steering wheel.







If I am an owner of one of the affected vehicles, what action do I need to take?



Toyota is working quickly to prepare a correction remedy and will issue owner notifications in the future. No action is required at this time unless you feel you are experiencing this condition. If you are experiencing this condition, immediately contact your nearest Toyota Dealer for assistance.





Toyota stated that this did not affect new/low mileage vehicles, has the situation changed?



The law requires that the entire universe of new vehicles identified in the recall notice must be included in the stop sale.



Why are you stopping production at your factories?



Production is being stopped temporarily at five North American production facilities to assess and coordinate activities related to the recall announced on January 21.



What should I do if I still have questions or concerns?



If you still have questions or concerns that have not been addressed here, please contact the Toyota Customer Experience Center at 1-800-331-4331.



The Toyota Customer Experience Center hours are:



Mon - Fri, 5:00 am - 6:00 pm PST



Sat, 7:00 am - 4:00 pm PST

Reference link: http://pressroom.toyota.com/pr/tms/toyota/FAQ-for-Sticking-Accelerator-Pedal-152196.aspx

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Jeep at Tuki - HDR

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1989 Chevy Truck tail lights go out when I hit the Brakes

I have a 1989 Chevy pick up scottsdale 1500 the left tail light goes out when I activate the brakes any advice would be helpful. thanks



Response:



It's either a bad ground or a bad light socket itself and very common to fail. Your wire harness runs down the drivers side just inside the frame rail to just below the left tail light where it forks and part goes up the other over to the right tail light with quick connectors for the license plate light. UNLESS, someone has installed an aftermarket trailer wiring package. Also check your trailer connection. even though your not using the connection you are still receiving power to the plug. use a test light to make sure it's working properly.



good luck

Lexus SC 430 HDR

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1999 Ford E-150 has a misfire problem that I can't seem to fix

TPS Sensor

My 1999, E-150 has a misfire problem that I can't seem to fix. I had to replace the Camshaft Sensor due to the 3-wire connector being fused together during a simple thermostat replacement. I had trouble connecting the Sensor back onto the 3-wire coupling due to an electrical degreaser I used, which melted the 3-wire insulation and caused the wires to touch each other.



After I put it all back together, and started the engine, I got nothing to run. So..... after breaking it all down again to discover the Camshaft Sensor fried, along with the 30amp fuse in the fuse box under the hood, I had to go find another connector (used) and a NEW sensor, and put it all back together. The engine turned on!



But..... the motor ran a bit rough at idle. Then I drove the van around and the misfire was in all driving gears and RPM's. It was rough enough for me to park the van and try to diagnose the problem. I replaced the spark plugs, tested the Coil Pack with an Ohm meter and still nothing helped.



What do I do now?



Response:

Try your T.PS. sensor sounds like that may be the real problem. I had same problem and that fixed mine.

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2011 Ferrari 458 Italia

The 458 Italia is the latest incarnation of the mid-rear engined berlinetta. The new model is a synthesis of style, creative flair, passion and cutting-edge technology, characteristics for which Italy as a nation is well-known. For this reason Ferrari chose to add the name of its homeland to the traditional figure representing the displacement and number of cylinders. A two-seater berlinetta, the Ferrari 458 Italia, as is now traditional for all Ferrari’s road-going cars, benefits hugely from the company’s Formula 1 experience. This is particularly evident in the speed and precision with which the car responds to driver inputs and in the attention focused on reducing internal friction in the engine for lower fuel consumption than the F430, despite the fact that both overall displacement and power have increased. Once again input from Michael Schumacher - who was involved from the very start of the 458 Italia project - played an invaluable part.


2011 Ferrari 458 Italia Wallpaper


2011 Ferrari 458 Italia in yellow


2011 Ferrari 458 Italia


2011 Ferrari 458 Italia

Oil Pressure Question

OK guys, my 1989 S-10 Blazer has an oil leak, I know this for sure. It has the oil filter on the fender well. Normally when the oil gets low the gauge drops below 40 and the light comes on. Last night when I was stopping at street lights I was starting to hear a slight knocking noise. The oil pressure gauge was still reading between 60-80 however when I checked the dipstick, there was no oil. Well, I threw in 4 quarts of oil, waited 10 minutes, checked and there was oil on the dipstick. Oil gauge was still reading 40-60 pressure.





What would make the gauge show pressure when there is no oil?



Oh, about 2 months ago, the converter plugged up and the truck backfired and blew the gasket out of the valve cover, but not to where the cover warped or leaks oil. We cut off the converter,it smoked for a few days, ran really rough and then cleared up and I haven't had problems with it until last night. After the oil was put in, it started smoking and running rough again. We didn't replace the muffler so i assume that is most likely plugged again, causing the smoke and rough running.

 

Response:

 

Oil filter remotely mounted? Haven't saw one of those since my 53 Chevy. I would look at what is moving the oil from the engine to the filter and back. Possible leak there. 60-80 psi is way too high. But gauges as they get older are not very accurate, and they can stick. Is the dip stick original? Was it changed for a shorter one? Without looking at the ride, it's only a guess at this point. If you plan to keep it, tow it in to a good mechanic and have him take a leak at it.

 

Here we are talking about at least 2 problems. They may be related. The Oil problem, air in your oil line will still give you a pressure reading although it is False. The lack of oil giving you the bearing knock is proof enough. Now, if you run your engine low on oil it runs at a Hotter Temp and causes wear and heat damages. Now remember this, the cat converter was attached and was removed because it was believed to be plugged. If it was then there is a good chance of Carbon Deposit Build Up in the EGR System. What is the Carbon? It's your engine oil cooked from heat. What is your EGR System? Exhaust Gas Recirculatory System. What removes Carbon? Heat. What causes the re occurance? Lack of Oil.

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Sideways.

Sideways., originally uploaded by Lucian Bickerton.

Mustang GT doing what it should do; drifting.

Window stuck down on my 1997 Lincoln Town Car

a cable to the window regulator in the driver's side door broke and the window is all the way down. Have taken off the door panel to try to push the window up, however it is stuck. How can I release the window to hold it up while the new regulator arrives?



Response:

I'm ASSUMING that you are referring to the nylon track itself being broken. There are 2 10mm nuts on the bottom of the glass that hold the window to the track. Unbolt and slide the window up and use a piece of rope on the inside of the window to control it up and down until you get the track. You can tie off 1 end to the door closer strap to keep the window up and still use the door.

Charger

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not scalextric

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1999 Chevy Tahoe and I need to replace the Blower Motor Resistor

Blower Motor Resistor = 1

I have a 1999 Chevy Tahoe and I need to replace the Blower Motor Resistor. I understand that it is on top of the blower and access is by removing the radio and heater control panel. Can anyone advise the easiest and best way to safely remove the dash panels to gain access? I don’t want to break anything during the removal process. Thanks!



Response:

The Resistor is under the hood in the engine compartment. It's held onto the fibreglass case with 2 1/4 screws and has 4 wires, 1 going to the blower itself and 3 going into the main harness and back to the switch. So follow that Orange or Tan 10 gauge wire on the blower back to that resistor.

Mi-Jack Sauber

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95 Chevy G 20 keeps blowing multiable fuses...

My blinkers were working then I had to do them manually and then they started working again then I smelled smoke and they quit altogether. I also lost my brake lights too at the same time. I changed the bulbs and that didn't work, I took it to muffler man and he said I had multiable fuses blown, but didn't know what had caused it to do that. Muffler man changed the fuses and when I picked up the van, I drove for about 30 minutes and they all blew again. Also I have a small hole in the radiator up at the very top side by the corner, can I use a sealant to fix it or do I have to replace it? it's not leaking enough to even hit the ground, but you can see where it's coming fromby the bubbling it does. So I was hoping maybe someone out there may know something about this problem. Thanks a bunch

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Sportwagen

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Black and white for Sean Forge

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No Heat in my 2003 Chevy Silverado 2500HD

I have a 2003 Chevy Silverado 2500HD with a 6.0 engine. This morning I Started my truck and let it set for 15 minutes to warm up and defrost the windshield. When I went back out there was no heat at all coming from the defrost or the heater. I drove it around after scraping the windshield and still no heat. It was working fine before, what could it be?



Response:



As long as your coolant level is full, you may have a bad thermostat or a clogged heater core. With the engine running at normal operating temperature, check the heater hoses to see if both sides are hot or if one side is cold. If one side is cold, then you have a clogged heater core and it will need to be replaced. Look for about 8 hours for this job. 

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Novitec Rosso F430

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