Showing posts with label electrical. Show all posts
Showing posts with label electrical. Show all posts
Friday, April 15, 2011
12004 Ford Mustang Electrical Problem with Dash Cluster
mustang with 3.8L V-6 engine has a dash cluster electrical problem that is happening randomly. The cluster loses power at times off/on while the engine is running. The instrument cluster gauges all go to the off positions, including the speedometer as well. Previously only the battery light was flashing on/off randomly and thought it was just faulty. Now this problem has arose. We don't know if the engine light ever came on during the instrument dash gauge power loss. Do you think there may now be a stored computer code to help identify this gremlin? Otherwise is there a relay or circuit breaker that may be the cause? How do you track this down to repair and will it damage anything if it continues? So far the engine is starting and running normally.
Labels:
electrical,
Ford
Thursday, February 10, 2011
Turn Signal blinkers are dying...
I have a question I am hoping someone can help me with I have 94 buick regal and am looking for where on the steering wheel I might find the blinker module, my blinkers are almost dead and (no it is not a fuse)we tried we believe it the module but,have no idea where it is located.Can ANYONE help me please....
Labels:
Buick,
electrical,
turn signals
Wednesday, June 30, 2010
charging system question on 1999 Lincoln Continental
I need some electrical charging system advice> My 1999 Lincoln seem to have a faulty or limited charging system. I just changed batteries and traded for a higher quality that the one I replaced. It seems that the battery is not receiving a full charge and the battery -after only three weeks- shows low charge or need service when checked. The old battery had the same problem and left me several times stranded with no starting power. the day I changed batteries it started almost as soon as the key was turned, now it takes a couple of turns and when I took it to Jiffy Lube for service the battery was low.
there is no charge fault light that comes on the instrument panel, however I do understand that something is not quite right. Can use some guidance in troubleshooting and avoid doing a dozen expensive things by trial and error.
Response:
1) Ring out the voltage at the battery when the engine is idling. Should be between 14.2-14.4 volts. If low, check the belt(s) or alternator.
2) Also, if a serpentine belt, check the idler to see if the shaft is not bent, and the pulley runs freely.
3) you can take the alternator in to auto zone and get it tested free. Its usually the alternator when a car doesn't charge enough.
4) Yes 9 out of ten times is the alternator that has a bad diode and all of your energy leaks out, you can test by placing a screw driver on the back of the alternator while the car is not running and no key on the ignition if the screw diver is attracted to the alternator due to magnetism then you know to replace the alternator.
there is no charge fault light that comes on the instrument panel, however I do understand that something is not quite right. Can use some guidance in troubleshooting and avoid doing a dozen expensive things by trial and error.
Response:
1) Ring out the voltage at the battery when the engine is idling. Should be between 14.2-14.4 volts. If low, check the belt(s) or alternator.
2) Also, if a serpentine belt, check the idler to see if the shaft is not bent, and the pulley runs freely.
3) you can take the alternator in to auto zone and get it tested free. Its usually the alternator when a car doesn't charge enough.
4) Yes 9 out of ten times is the alternator that has a bad diode and all of your energy leaks out, you can test by placing a screw driver on the back of the alternator while the car is not running and no key on the ignition if the screw diver is attracted to the alternator due to magnetism then you know to replace the alternator.
Labels:
Alternator,
Charging,
electrical,
Questions and Answers
Thursday, May 13, 2010
ignition help
can any one give me instructions on how to take out and put a new ignition in my 96 lincoln town car not chiped
Response:
The Ignition Switch (electrical) is located on the top of the steering column assy. So if you unbolt the column it will drop down enough to replace the switch. The Lock Cyclender Assy is different. Remove the Steering Wheel Lock Nut. Mark the Wheel and Shaft for alignment on reassembly. With a Steering Wheel Puller remove the Steering Wheel. Remove the Horn assy. Remove the Steering Wheel Lock Plate by depressing to remove the retaing clip. Remove the Turn Signal Switch assy and reveal 1 screw that holds the Lock Cylender in place. Reverse for assembly.
Response:
The Ignition Switch (electrical) is located on the top of the steering column assy. So if you unbolt the column it will drop down enough to replace the switch. The Lock Cyclender Assy is different. Remove the Steering Wheel Lock Nut. Mark the Wheel and Shaft for alignment on reassembly. With a Steering Wheel Puller remove the Steering Wheel. Remove the Horn assy. Remove the Steering Wheel Lock Plate by depressing to remove the retaing clip. Remove the Turn Signal Switch assy and reveal 1 screw that holds the Lock Cylender in place. Reverse for assembly.
Labels:
Auto Repair,
electrical,
Ignitiion,
Lincoln,
Questions and Answers
Friday, February 5, 2010
96 Monte Carlo with a 3.4 liter motor he keeps burning up his alternator
Response:
1) Disconnect that amp and subs.
2) Sounds like something is drawing a lot of amps. Has he been blowing fuses and replaced them with a higher amp fuse? Do any wires feel hot or warm. The fan belt could be over tighten,(this is bad for the bearings). Get it to a garage and have them check it.
3) One of the sensors is bad. Check your voltage at each sensor both cold and hot and compare to specs. Usually high voltage (battery voltage) is a cold cycle circuit. Low voltage (half battery voltage) is the run or warm circuit. This triggers the ECM to set the cycle for ignition and fuel pump. A common problem with the distributor model 4 cyl was the pickup coil and reluctor in what was known as the "Hall Effect" Ignition.
4) hall effect is possible. an automatic shut down relay is possible. another strange thing is the map sensor. these are all easy checks to find out no meters or other things. start with the shut down relay which is under the hood in the relay center and switch it with another relay of the same number like the ac or what ever and see if it runs when warm. for the test on the map unplug the vacuum and see if it runs (it will act flooded but it will run) if it is the map and if all else fails it can be the pick-up coil know as the hall effect. in the distributor flat plate their when cap is removed lol and have a great day.
Labels:
advice,
Auto Repair,
Chevy,
electrical,
Questions and Answers
Friday, January 29, 2010
1989 Chevy Truck tail lights go out when I hit the Brakes
Response:
It's either a bad ground or a bad light socket itself and very common to fail. Your wire harness runs down the drivers side just inside the frame rail to just below the left tail light where it forks and part goes up the other over to the right tail light with quick connectors for the license plate light. UNLESS, someone has installed an aftermarket trailer wiring package. Also check your trailer connection. even though your not using the connection you are still receiving power to the plug. use a test light to make sure it's working properly.
good luck
Labels:
Chevy,
electrical,
Questions and Answers,
wiring
Thursday, January 14, 2010
1999 Chevy Tahoe and I need to replace the Blower Motor Resistor
Blower Motor Resistor = 1
I have a 1999 Chevy Tahoe and I need to replace the Blower Motor Resistor. I understand that it is on top of the blower and access is by removing the radio and heater control panel. Can anyone advise the easiest and best way to safely remove the dash panels to gain access? I don’t want to break anything during the removal process. Thanks!Response:
The Resistor is under the hood in the engine compartment. It's held onto the fibreglass case with 2 1/4 screws and has 4 wires, 1 going to the blower itself and 3 going into the main harness and back to the switch. So follow that Orange or Tan 10 gauge wire on the blower back to that resistor.
Labels:
Chevy,
electrical,
heating,
Questions and Answers
Monday, January 11, 2010
95 Chevy G 20 keeps blowing multiable fuses...
Labels:
Chevy,
electrical,
Questions and Answers
Saturday, December 12, 2009
1996 Saturn-Starting Problem
Thank you for any suggestions you may have!
Response:
http://www.freeautomechanic.com/nostart.html it seems to be an electrical problem. Before you do anything else make sure the blinkers work at normal pace, sometimes lights and all other electrical equipment work with a low battery, not the blinkers. Also, if the battery is not delivering sufficient power to crank the engine you should hear a ‘clicking’ noise, which is a sure sign of insufficient crank power and the battery needs to be charged and the posts cleaned and make sure they are tight.
Often, when the battery is new and fully charged the battery posts are no tight enough, or have enough corrosion –which is not always visible- to prevent from sending sufficient power to the starter. If this is the case, simply cleaning and retightening of the posts is enough to solve the problem.
If you have plenty of power and none of the above symptoms are present, the most likely alternative is a possible loose connection in the starter system.
Labels:
electrical,
No Start,
Questions and Answers,
Saturn
Sunday, October 25, 2009
2001 Chrysler Intrepid battery light on
Response:
the battery light coming on has nothing to do with an oxygen sensor. I would suggest going to a different shop and having it retested.
An Oxygen sensor has nothing to do with the battery light. If you unplug an oxygen sensor it will still run but have bad gas mileage and the check engine light will come on.
Labels:
Charging,
Chrysler,
electrical,
Questions and Answers
Tuesday, August 18, 2009
When I turn the headlights on the right turn signal blinks fast

When the headlights are off the turn signals work. When I turn the headlights on the right turn signal blinks fast. What is going on?
Answer:
Someone at one time has replaced one of the bulbs with the wrong one... It may look the same , but isn't the same..( ex. a 3057 was used instead of a 3157) . Again they look the same but are not the same. And yes I have seen this before.... Look closely at the bulbs and refer to the owners manual to make certain you install the correct ones. generally in the rear with the dual element bulbs.
Labels:
electrical,
Questions and Answers
Thursday, August 13, 2009
Air Conditioner Problems

Any automotive air conditioning system employs four basic parts-a mechanical compressor, driven by the vehicle's engine; an expansion valve, which is a restriction the compressor pumps against; and two heat exchangers, the evaporator and the condenser. In addition, there is the refrigerant that flows through this system. Avoid the need for an auto air conditioner service call Look Below for car auto air conditioning repair Troubleshooting Procedures
The freon is compressed and flows through the condenser where it is cooled into a liquid. The freon passes through the receiver/dryer to remove moisture. Once the freon leaves and enters the expansion valve/orifice tube The high pressure liquid becomes a vapor and is extremely cold as it passes through the evaporator and on to the compressor to repeat the cycle.
Air Conditioner blows warm air
1. Air conditioner system is discharged. Have the system evacuated, charged and leak tested by an MVAC certified technician, utilizing approved recovery/recycling equipment. Repair as necessary.
2. Air conditioner compressor clutch not engaging. Check compressor clutch wiring, electrical connections and compressor clutch, and repair or replace as necessary.
1. Air conditioner system is discharged. Have the system evacuated, charged and leak tested by an MVAC certified technician, utilizing approved recovery/recycling equipment. Repair as necessary.
2. Air conditioner compressor clutch not engaging. Check compressor clutch wiring, electrical connections and compressor clutch, and repair or replace as necessary.
Labels:
Air Conditioning,
electrical,
Questions and Answers
Tuesday, April 14, 2009
Now no brake and parking lights

Simple job turned into something major, I hope not. 97 corolla, r. rear brake light not working. Replaced the bulb, everything was working good, decided to replace all bulbs, Antie told me she doesn't remember when they were changed. placed all new bulbs, 1157 for brake lights, 1156 for backup lights. Now no brake and parking lights. Signal and hazard lights are working, I wanted to see if the backup lights worked, guess what, the shifter won't move, like it is stuck.
Answer:
OK in the process you have blown the brake lamp fuse and this also will affect the shift interlock device. so replace the fuse and see if it blows again or not. if not then great, your back on the road, if so then you have a short to ground somewhere in the circuit.
Answer:
OK in the process you have blown the brake lamp fuse and this also will affect the shift interlock device. so replace the fuse and see if it blows again or not. if not then great, your back on the road, if so then you have a short to ground somewhere in the circuit.
Labels:
Auto Repair,
electrical,
Questions and Answers,
Toyota
Saturday, April 11, 2009
Car Air Conditioning Repair
There are several sites on the web that cover details on how the car air conditioning system works. But what most of us want is one web site that can explain the air conditioning system, Tell us how to troubleshoot, how to repair the air conditioning and then how to recharge the A/C. Our Parent site has done all this and more for you Automotive Air Conditioning.
You will discover the troubleshooting procedures you need to determine what is wrong with your air conditioning and how to fix it and recharge it . The procedures are step by step and include diagrams and photos for ease of understanding.
Thursday, April 9, 2009
Alternator Repair and Testing

Alternator Repair
Basically this means that an alternator is what charges the car's battery and also provides power to operate the engines computer, lights, radio, etc. So, if the alternator quits functioning then all of these electrical devices will try to run off the car's battery. The problem with that is, once the battery starts to loose power ( since it is no longer being recharged ) the will start to function poorly and will eventually stop running altogether. Generally when the alternator starts to fail a Battery light will illuminate on the dash board. This means the battery is no longer being charged , this does not mean the battery has a problem. Read Entire Article
Labels:
Articles,
Auto Repair,
Charging,
electrical,
Questions and Answers
Monday, March 30, 2009
I am unable to turn the immobiliser off

I have a Hyundai coupe w reg. It has a factory fitted immobiliser. I am unable to turn the immobiliser off, I can open the car with the keys, but when I try the ignition it is dead, nothing works, there are no lights when you open the door, everything is immobilized, how can I turn the immobiliser off so I can use the car, and take it to a garage.
ASNWER:
The immobiliser is integral with the cars ECU, and therefore cannot be switched off, it will need to be diagnosed and either repaired or reprogrammed using a JOBD diagnostic system, that has suitable software. Most good auto electrical engineers should have the correct equipment, and some of them also work mobile, so they may be able to get you up and running without you having to take it to them.
Labels:
Auto Repair,
electrical,
Hyundai,
Questions and Answers
Sunday, March 29, 2009
2000 vw beetle has a problem with the battery draining after about three days
My 2000 VW beetle has a problem with the battery draining after about three days of normal use. Both the battery and alternator check out OK. Also have a problem with driver-side electric windows won't go up or down. Any ideas would be great.
Answer:
More than likely the harness going from the back of the alternator to the battery is faulty. Run the car with the radio, seat heaters, headlights, emergency lights, and rear window defroster on for 20 minutes with the hood closed. Then you need to put a voltmeter with one one lead on the positive battery post and the other on the large wire at the back of the alternator. That measurement should be around .06 volt. If it is over .1 volt the harness is faulty. You can buy one new from the dealer.
Labels:
Auto Repair,
electrical,
Power Windows,
Questions and Answers,
VW
Tuesday, March 24, 2009
Electronic Engine Controls and Sensors | Testing Procedures
All Sequential Fuel Injection (SFI) systems use the EEC system. The heart of the EEC system is a microprocessor called the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). The PCM receives data from a number of sensors and other electronic components (switches, relays, etc.). Based on information received and information programmed in the PCM's memory, it generates output signals to control various relays, solenoids and other actuators. The PCM in the EEC system has calibration modules located inside the assembly that contain calibration specifications for optimizing emissions, fuel economy and driveability. The calibration module is called a PROM.
Electronic Engine Controls and Sensor Testing Procedures
Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
Throttle Position (TP) sensor
Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor
Idle Air Control (IAC) valve
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor
Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S)
Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor
Knock Sensor (KS)
Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS)
Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor
Electronic Engine Controls and Sensor Testing Procedures
Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
Throttle Position (TP) sensor
Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor
Idle Air Control (IAC) valve
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor
Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S)
Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor
Knock Sensor (KS)
Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS)
Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor
Saturday, March 21, 2009
My Electric Power Seats are not working?
The power motor that operates the up down motion on the front of the passenger seat is not functioning on my 2000 Silverado. IS this common and what are my options?
Answer:
The seat motors can bind up if run all the way up or down. First check for a blown fuse. It is easy enough to turn the drive with pliers to free it up. If it doesn't turn it is bound. Remove the motor and try to turn it again. If it still doesn't turn then the seat base will need replaced. If it does turn plug the motor in and test it to see if it runs. If the motor does run it may be week from a bad armature or worn brushes. If the motor doesn't run check for power and ground at the motor connector. If it has power and ground the motor is no good. If it doesn't have power and ground The module is probably no good. Verify power and ground at the module before you condemn it.
Labels:
Auto Repair,
Chevy,
electrical,
GM,
GMC,
Questions and Answers,
Truck
Sunday, February 15, 2009
Defrost only on high and still wont clear up.

2001 LHS. Windows are fogging up in back. Defrost only on high and still wont clear up. Driver only in car and nothing wet inside. Does this model have an air exchange door that I can get at to check if it is stuck?
Answer:
You have it correct, the recirculation door for outside air is stuck closed and not allowing air to come in causing the fogging condition. The motor for this door is on the passenger side of the heater box. I believe that you can see this if you take the glove box out, but it has been a long time since I've worked on one of these for this issue. It is motor number 2. As I looked at the instructions it says the dash has to come out to get to this motor.
Labels:
Auto Repair,
Chrysler,
Defrost,
electrical,
Questions and Answers
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